The Port Royal Marina was generally nice except for two little problems: (1) The wi-fi was pretty bad, and (2) it was RIGHT next to a major highway bridge – so we heard highway noises all night. That particular problem we solved by closing the windows and turning on the air conditioning, even though it wasn’t that hot. At least the A/C generated white noise that let us sleep!
Actually, there is
quite a bit of history associated with the region. European history of the Port
Royal region began in 1514 – over 500 years ago – when Spanish Captain Pedro de
Salaza explored the area. His was the second expedition that landed on the
North American continent, after that of Ponce de Leon who landed a year earlier.
Moreover, Port Royal was the home of the first fort in North America; later,
nearby St. Helena served as the first capital for Spanish interests in America.
Sixteenth Century America is turning out to be a fascinating interplay of
Britain, France, Spain and plenty of non-state actors in the form of pirates.
Even more interesting is that much of it took place in the Southeastern United
States along the coast and the banks of the major river systems – much of which
is now the ICW. We may have to spend some more time around Beaufort next
year exploring more of its history.
After Beaufort, we headed north. We bypassed Charleston this
year and went on to McClellanville, SC. Now, McClellanville has special
significance for me. For the five years we have been cruising the ICW (and I am
sure for many years before that) the area around the town has been one of the
ICW’s “trouble spots,” in that it the water around the town was VERY shallow. The
Corps of Engineers (with local assistance) is supposed to keep the waterway at
10’, more or less, all the time. But around McClellanville, it was frequently
closer to four or five feet. Virtually all sailboats had to play the tides and
even boats like ours had to be very careful. In fact, yes, we did go aground
outside of McClellanville one time, and we have touched bottom a couple of
others. So, every time we passed the place I had to ask myself, “Why in the name
of heaven would anyone want to go to a marina in a town that does not lobby its
local and state representatives to dredge the waterway in the region?” And I
was serious. I, for one, refused – as a matter of principle – to use the
McClellanville marina.
Lo and behold, last year the local government put up some money,
which, in turn, pressured the state to put up some money, which, when coupled
with cash from the Corps of Engineers, was enough to dredge the waterway!!!
Well, that being the case, we did not have any choice other but to dock at McClellanville’s
marina. It was a first for us, and quite frankly could well be a last in that it
isn’t much of a marina. I will say, however, that there are three things about
the area that we really enjoyed. First, the local restaurant was pretty darn
good! It wasn’t anything fancy, but served plain old fashioned southern country
seafood – and it was down home good! Second, the town has a live oak tree that is
estimated to be over 1000 years old. Think
about it: the tree was nearly 500 years old when Columbus landed; over 850 at
the end of the Civil War. Wow! And
finally, McClellanville has one of those
small local museums that are a treasure trove of information about the area and
have really some cool local artifacts. Unfortunately, we were only able to spend
an hour before it closed. IF we ever go back to McClellanville it will be to
see the museum (and probably to eat at the restaurant) not to survive the local
marina.
After McClellanville,
it was on to Osprey Marina. We didn’t spend the night there, we only bought
fuel. Although it was well under my $2.00 goal, it was 1.81 – still a little
high if you ask me. After Osprey, we stopped at Barefoot Landing Marina in
Myrtle Beach, SC where we looked at some of the T-shirt shops, etc.
Last year we had intended to stop at Carolina Beach to set
up on their mooring balls and check out the area. Unfortunately, we got
pre-empted by Tropical Storm Ana and had to go to a marina where we could wait
out the storm. This year, we decided, once again, to give the mooring balls a
try. The mooring field was quite good and the balls themselves well taken care
of, so we downloaded the dinghy and headed into town. On the one hand, the town
has definitely seen better days as there were night clubs and bars on the ocean
right next to ice cream shops (the ice cream shops were still closed for the
season, the bars were all open – regardless of the season). On the other hand,
the town was trying to comeback by building a nice little boardwalk near the
beach. I am sure it is a lot nicer in the summer when families are enjoying the
area and the beaches, but in mid-April, it was kinda dead.
A few miles up the Cape Fear River from Carolina Beach is
Wilmington, NC. Last year, at the Annapolis Boat Show, we received an offer of
a free three-day stay at xxx Marina. The problem with the marina is that it is
across the bridge and about two miles from downtown Wilmington. I now, I know,
you are wondering why we didn’t just hop in the car and go downtown – well, of
course, we don’t have a car. What we did do was meet with our daughter, Lisa’s,
best friend from high school (yes, that was a few years ago). Beky took Ann out
to run a few errands and catch up on times past. And yes, Lisa, we now know
more about your high school years than you would care for us to know! Overall,
Wilmington seemed like a nice town. We did not get to take advantage of its
sights as the marina where we stayed was just too far from downtown. If we go
again – and we might – we will be staying at the city docks which are right on
the local waterfront.
Every year that we travel the ICW -- whether going up or
coming down – we stop at Belhaven, NC. You are probably thinking that it is the
birthplace of a famous author, philosopher or scientist to whom we want to pay
homage, or that there is some sort of religious significance attached to
Belhaven. Nope. It’s food. Spoon River
Artworks and Market, believe it or not, is is a restaurant in downtown Belhaven that invariably has one or more
extraordinary dishes made of local fare that would contend with some of the
high end restaurants at which we have eaten in New York and Washington, DC.
This year we started with a Quail Egg Brochette as an appetizer. Ann then had a
Cornish game hen with potatoes and something else while I had seafood paella
with lobster, scallops and shrimp. Everything was scrumptious!!! Often we
anchor out when we go to the restaurant because Belhaven has a very nice
anchorage. This year, however, we tried a new marina, the River Forest Marina,
which is just out of town. The docks were adequate and we met several people we
would not otherwise have met. We’ll have to wait until next year to see if we
return to River Forest – but I can guarantee we will visit Spoon River!!
After Belhaven it was on to Elizabeth City. Elizabeth City,
NC bills itself as “The Harbor of Hospitality.” Although we have been treated
hospitably almost everywhere we have gone, in Elizabeth City they held an
event, hosted by the mayor, with free wine and where they gave each of the
ladies present a rose from the City. Moreover, the city has about 14 slips that
are free to transients and several other locations on the waterfront offer free
dockage. In short, Elizabeth City certainly is one of the most hospitable
places we have been.
We went to Elizabeth City so see one of my West Point
classmates and company-mates, Dick Atha. Dick was the quarterback of the
football team back in the days when Army actually beat Navy once in a while. It
was great catching up with Dick and getting his perspective on why Army
football has been so poor over the past decade or so.
In addition to being the city where Dick Atha lives,
Elizabeth City is also the gateway to the Dismal Swamp Canal. As the US Fish
and Wildlife Service points out:
Human occupation of the Great Dismal Swamp area dates back some 13,000
years, 4,000 years before the formation of the swamp began. By the time
European colonists arrived, the area had acquired its swamp-like character and
it was here that they met the Nansemond Indians, who inhabited the western edge
of the swamp.
In 1728, William Byrd II, charged
with surveying the boundary between Virginia and North Carolina, proposed
draining the swamp, selling the timber, and using the land for agricultural
purposes. It would be 40 years before several prominent Virginians, including
George Washington, founded the Dismal Swamp Land Company in an effort to
implement Byrd's plan. The company did not succeed with the agricultural
venture, but commercial harvesting of the swamp's resources had begun.
In the 18th and early 19th
centuries, the Great Dismal Swamp served as a refuge for African-Americans
escaping slavery. Historians believe these people established maroon
communities in the swamp and used the swamp as both temporary and long term shelter.
Henry Wadsworth Longfellow and Harriet Beecher Stowe found literary inspiration
in the swamp and the slaves hiding there.
We
had completed the canal once before. It was fairly shallow back then and
remains so to this day. We probably won’t be going on it again as we touched
bottom several times and for a short period of time even had something we
picked up off the bottom (vine? fishing line? someone’s rope? Give the boat a
vibration. I thought we were going to have to find a diver to take it off, but
luckily it seemed to work its own way off the prop after a ½ hour or so. The
Canal is fun, its kitschy, it’s interesting, but it also isn’t for us.
And
that’s how we finished the ICW. On our next iteration, I’ll talk a little about
our trip to Cape Charles, to the Solomons, and our projected maintenance – oh
yea, and our new condo.
Ann’s
Notes: I know Michael wants to get this blog out…I did read it and I think it
is good to go.
Just
one addition, when we had dinner in Belhaven and having dinner we were with
another cruising couple. Kay and Charlie from Plane 2 Sea, we have met them
several times at several different locations – and almost all included food.
They are a fun couple to spend time with.
We
have so much to do… My mind is working in a forward time span right now. Thinking
back on the ICW cruise seems like a long time ago, I loved it and had a
wonderful time.
Thank
you for reading…our adventure continues…
Traveling
Soul…OUT
Oh
wait…Spot is happy and well… and took her first unauthorized swim. More on that
later…
