The problem with these inlets is that when the ocean sweeps
in at high tide, it picks up and moves tons of sand and mud, dropping it
elsewhere in the inlet. Then, when the tide changes, the same process takes
place in reverse. The challenge to a boater moving from north to south past the
inlet is that he can never be quite sure where the tidal shifts left the sand
from the day before. Now, add a hurricane or two into the mix and you can begin
to see how and why cruisers are so concerned about some of these inlets.
The picture below is a graphical representation of the Corps
of Engineers survey of one inlet shortly after Hurricane Matthew. The blue is
the deep water and the red is the shallowest water. Imagine a boat coming from
your right. Our imaginary boater will keep red marker 44 on his right and move
up to and beyond 46. He then enters water that is Color-coded green – and is a little shallower.
Corps of Engineer Survey of Lockwood's Folly post-Matthew |
The easy way to get through these inlets is to go through
when the tide is rising and nearly at high tide. Then, you carefully follow the
coast guard day marks through the inlet.
Nature, however, isn’t kind enough to space the inlets so that you can
conveniently pass through them all in one day on a rising ride. In our case, we
were able to cruise through Brown’s Inlet near high tide and had no problems
whatsoever getting through. We then spent two days at Carolina Beach and faced
the next two trouble spots nearer low tide. We made it through all of them, but
it was a bit of a white-knuckler as we went through. Just to make it especially
interesting, at Lockwood’s Folly there was a boat aground, in the process of
being pulled off the sand by TowBoat US. Whew! There, but for the Grace of God
…
Anyhow, our initial plan was to leave Beaufort, then go see
a friend of ours from days long past. Jim Treadwell was my executive officer while
I was a company commander in the 82d Airborne Division. He was also a member of
Company H3, the same USMA company of
which I was a member – though he was three years behind me. The cold I caught, however,
and the remnants of Hurricane Matthew slowed us down and Jim had to get back
home. We have agreed to try to meet in Florida in December, or if not, then in
NC next spring.
Our first stop after Beaufort – and just beyond Brown’s
Inlet – was Mile Hammock Bay, a neat little anchorage located on the Marine
Corps Base at Camp Lejeune. Although they do not allow shore access, the
Marines do permit the general public to use Mile Hammock as an anchorage.
Thanks, Marine Corps.
Two or three miles down the ICW from Mile Hammock, is a
small marina called “New River Marina.” It is easy to get into and out of, but
unless you know it is there you might very well miss it. Why is all this
important? Because it has what appears to be the lowest price for diesel on the
ICW. Are you ready for this? $1.89 per gallon. I know that some of you think I
am making too much of the costs of fuel, but when you take on 300 – 400 gallons
or more, there is no such thing as “making too much of it.” One of the very long piers at Carolina Beach |
Carolina Beach was next on the itinerary and, rather than
going to a marina or to an anchorage, we took a mooring ball for two days. Our primary purpose was to see of our dinghy
was still in good condition and if we would be able to use it in the upcoming
season. I wish I could say it started right up – but it did not. However, after
some swearing, some cajoling and pulling that damn cord more times than I can
count, we got it going. We used it to go ashore, walk down the rather extensive
beach and gather sea shells for the first time in a year or more. Then we
hopped in the dink, landed at Gibby’s Dock and Dine and had a great club
sandwich. We putted around some more, declared victory over the dinghy and put her
back up.
From Carolina Beach we went to Coquina Yacht Club at Myrtle
Beach. We had hoped to stay at the Myrtle Beach Yacht Club itself, but alas, there
was no room at the inn (actually, the marina; I was just trying to be a bit
literary). We had also decided that we needed to hit the grocery store, liquor
store, hardware store, West Marina and a few other shopping locations. Because
of all we had to do we stayed at Coquina for four days and rented a car for two
of them. It seemed like we needed a car to get anywhere. Now we may have it all
wrong, but from what we could see Myrtle Beach is spread out over several
square miles (most of it along Highway 17) and without a car, we would have not
had much to do.
It was also at Coquina that we had an epiphany. Ann had
noticed that the gap in the seal around the freezer was becoming wider and
wider. This wasn’t the first time we had problems with that damn seal. A few
years ago a repairman offered to replace the seal for a mere $350. Since we
could buy an entire fridge for $1000 (okay, maybe a little bit more), we didn’t
think it worth the price and we just lived with the inefficiencies. Now,
however, we had developed a serious gap. All I could think of was boat units
flitting out the window (in addition to the cost of the fridge, of course, we
would have paid someone to help put it in. It wouldn’t fit through a door, so
we would probably have to have a window taken out … and put back in. You can
see how the costs add up). Hmmm, what to do, what to do. Between Ann and me, we
came up with the simple, elegant solution of buying a strip of butyl rubber and
filling in the gaps with the stripping. I know, I know, it is hardly
Einstein-like. But hey, it was simple, cheap, and most importantly, doable on a
boat in the middle of the ICW. It worked like a charm. We have reduced our
energy usage by about 30% to 40% with our brilliant invention. When and if you
ever need to use our repair technique, we ask only that you label it “The Mike
and Ann Brilliant Gap Solution.”
After four days at Coquina, we headed south again. Our stop the
first night was in what we call the Waccamaw River Anchorage. It is a nice
little anchorage that could easily hold ten boats. Though we were the first
there, later that afternoon four more boats joined us. The evening started out
kind of average with nothing untoward happening. We were all in the process of
enjoying the moon, the stars and the gentle slapping of the water against our
hulls. Then, IT happened.
I had just put down my book and was preparing to go to
sleep. Ann wanted to read a little, so she turned on her light. Then
<flicker> <flicker> nothing. The light would not turn back on. We
tried it again and again and again. Nothing. OMG we had been attacked.
Somewhere in that deep, dark night we had been attacked, by the huge, ugly,
vicious, Inverter-eater.
This is the anchorage where it happened. Can you find the Inverter-Eater? |
The inability to use our batteries to keep our food cold would
certainly have been a challenge. However, there was one thing that made the
situation even worse. All of our power – whether DC from the batteries, AC from
the generator or from the marina power outlet – goes through the inverter. The more electrically-inclined of you are
beginning to see the dimensions of the problem. If our only difficulty would
have been the inability of the inverter to convert DC into AC, we could have
run the generator occasionally to use the AC power to keep the fridge running.
But since we couldn’t get any power to the refrigerator, we had a problem.
We had planned on heading to the marina at Georgetown and had
already made reservations. When we arrived, we immediately asked if there was a
good marine electrician available. The dockmaster told us the guy we wanted was
Bubba (ok, that is not his real name, but since I have forgotten it and frankly
don’t like this guy, I am using artistic license to call him Bubba). I called
Bubba (twice), Ann called Bubba (once) and the dockmaster called him at least
once. Bubba, being a real SOB did not answer or return any of the calls.
What to do, what to do. A few years ago we had some electrical
problems in Charleston (about 60 miles to the south). Back then, we called the
Charleston Boatyard, who in turn had called Sea-Tec Marine, who eventually did
the work. They were good, they were fast and, importantly, they were owned and
staffed completely by veterans. We didn’t have anything to lose, so I called
Sarkis (yes, that’s his name; see what happens, Bubba, then you return people’s
calls they use your real name!) Sarkis immediately understood the problem and
told me what I needed to do to get the AC system running. It was terribly
simple. I had to find the set of three input wires, one each red, green and
black, find the set of three output wires of the same color and connect them to
each other. Now, I admit to having played (sometimes successfully) with DC
circuits in my life, but 110 volt AC circuits can kill you a lot faster, so I
have generally hired someone to deal with them. Here, however, it seemed as if
I didn’t have a choice. So, with my trusty tool kit and my trusty wife (to call
911, just in case) at my side, I delved into the deep, dark corners of the generator
room. I won’t go into any more details,
but suffice to say, I succeeded.
The problem, of course, wasn’t yet solved – just the food
emergency. I got Sarkis back on the phone and asked him what kind of inverter
he thought I needed to get. (When I first got the inverter 5 years ago, I did a
great deal of research on the size and the brand I wanted. To this day, I think
I got the right system.) Five years later, however, we found that my previous
inverter is no longer made. Moreover, the company that used to make the
inverters was sold and has been broken up. Now, don’t get me wrong. I knew a
little about the current generation of inverters, just not as much as I would
have liked. Well, Sarkis’ suggestion was unequivocal, I needed a Magnum MS2812.
When he said that, I remember a conversation I had with some folks a couple of
years ago, wherein they all recommended a Magnum. So, that’s what we decided to
do.
I know, I know, many of you would have bought the inverter, wired
it into the electrical system and been off. Well, I am not that good with 110
volt electrical systems (see above) and determined that I needed Sarkis to
install the inverter. He, however, wasn’t available for another 12 days. That
meant we had to hang around South Carolina until we could link up with him. At
the end of the day, we decided that we would all meet in Beaufort, SC on 14
November.
One of the many beautiful, old homes in Georgetown. |
Georgetown has a
number of museums, including the Rice Museum (you would be surprised at what
you can learn from a museum dedicated to rice!). We had already visited the Rice
Museum, the South Carolina Maritime Museum and the Georgetown City Museum. Next
time we will try to see the Gullah Museum and the Kaminski House Museum. This
time we limited ourselves to a tour of the city by a man driving an old time jeep and pulling an open-air trailer.
The 1000 year old Oak in McClellanville, SC. This tree was nearly 500 years old when Columbus discovered America and over 200 years old hen the Magna Carta was written. |
After
McClellanville it was on to Beaufort. So, that is where we are now, in
beautiful Beaufort, SC, waiting for Sarkis so we can get going on our trip
south. Will he be here on the 14th? I think so, hope so and am
willing to track him down and kill him if he is not. But, just as I have to
wait until the 14th to find out for sure, so do you J.
ANN’S Notes: I really do not have very much to add to this blog … Michael
pretty much gave you the highlights. I will say that it is nice to be under way
again. I have made the adjustment of cooking in my much smaller galley/ kitchen
… I do love that kitchen in the condo.
Spot really likes the cruising lifestyle, she has free roaming privileges
on board. So much to see and do, bird watching from the helm window where she has a huge pillow to lay on. I take
her out on the bow to roam around and play when we are at anchor.
Once we get the inverter in and working we will be on our way…
ok...post script...Michael added a few more activities to the blog so I will follow suit.
When we took a tour of Georgetown, it was a local man with a Jeep pulling and open air trolley. We have been to many museums in these parts were rice was the main cash crop along with cotton and indigo. I had been told many times that the white plantation owners would leave their plantations with their families and stay in their summer homes along the ocean front ... away from the fields and swamps that had the deadly malaria mosquitos. I wondered why the slaves did not suffer and die like the white owners. I found out why during our tour. The slaves that came from the coast of Africa had a natural defense against malaria ... it was because they had sickle cell shapes in their blood. Evolution protecting them against the mosquitoes and deadly malaria. Look it up on Google, it really is fascinating. Of course in this day and age the African-American does not need that protection and the sickle cell has caused other health issue for them.
I do enjoy learning new things while exploring new places and experiencing them.
Thank you for following us...
Traveling Soul...OUT
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