Our mission -- Space, the final frontier. These are the voyages of the starship Enter .. OOPS, sorry, I got carried away. Let me start again.

Our mission -- Warm Waters and Great Weather: The final frontier. These are the voyages of the Motor Vessel Traveling Soul. Its five-year mission: to explore strange warm waters, to seek out new forms of recreation and new civilizations, to boldly go where no Brown, Applegate or Higgins has gone before.

Saturday, May 30, 2015

Beaufort, SC to St. James Plantation, NC


This entry should be titled:
The Diary of a Mad Sailor
or How I Spent Four Days Waiting for Tropical Storm Ana to Hit the North Carolina Coast.

But more on that later. As you will recall, in our last blog we told you how many billions of dollars we found on Blackbeard Island (rounding off to the nearest billion it was zero). Our next stop was beautiful Beaufort, South Carolina. Because we had such a great experience the last time we visited, we decided to stay at the same marina; Lady’s Island Marina. TJ, the dockmaster, met us, caught our lines and helped us tie up. More importantly, our friends Becky and Captain Mark aboard their boat Sea Angel, one of the few Jeffersons we have seen on the Waterway, were also there!! During our time at Lady’s Island, we met with Mark and Becky a number of times. We went out to eat once with them, we ate on their boat and had drinks. They even lent us their car so we could re-provision and take a quick tour of Lady’s Island. They are turning out to be some of our best cruising friends.

We stayed at Lady’s Island for five days. In addition to spending time with Mark and Becky, we went to breakfast once at the Huddle House, which is fast becoming one of Ann’s favorite breakfast destinations. She had Pecan Pancakes. We also met Bud and Elaine aboard Diamond Girl. They are the new ICW cruising editors for Dozier’s Waterway Guide.

After Lady’s Island, we anchored out two evenings, once at the Church River and once at the Whiteside River. The Church River is about 50 miles north of Beaufort so it was a relatively short day. The cruise up the ICW was idyllic and the weather perfect for cruising. That evening, I cooked steaks on the grill, we watched some “How I Met Your Mother,” (about which I will explain more later) and went to bed, fat dumb and happy. When we awoke the next morning, it was windy and raining. It wasn’t terrible, but it did not look like it was going to be another perfect day; oh the trials and tribulations of the full-time cruiser. Making matters even more complicated was the fact that we had developed a rather complicated plan for the next two days.

Just beyond Charleston are two of the worst trouble spots on the ICW: one is just north of the Ben Sawyer Bridge (on our four trips through there, we have seen vessels aground twice – and one time there were multiple vessels aground). The other is a little further north – about a three mile stretch just south of McClellanville, SC. Our plan was to hit the first location on a rising tide, and, though the water south of McClellanville was shallow, we thought we could make it through before the tide got too low. The only way we could accomplish that magnificent feat of navigation was to hang around the Curch Street anchorage until 1030-1100, then make the day’s run at between 9 and 10 statute miles per hour. It was a great plan, but the lousy weather made us ask whether or not we would be able to keep up our speed – especially while passing through very shallow water.

The weather through most of the day wasn’t as bad as we had feared and we made it easily. About 1400, though, it started raining, thundering and blowing pretty hard. In fact, it actually hailed!!! Now we have seen a lot of different kinds of weather in our travels, but we hadn’t seen hail before. Because of the deteriorating weather, and because we had already traversed the major trouble spots, we decided to anchor for the night. As it happened, we anchored in the same place we did last year, Whiteside Creek, a nice enough anchorage with decent protection from most winds and currents. Ann had to get out, however, to prepare and drop the anchor, and to attach the snubbers. After she did that and almost got dry, we decided that we really weren’t comfortable with the way we had drifted, so we did it a second time. Ann got – shall we say – a little wet that day? That is important because as soon as she finished and we were comfortable that the anchor would hold us through the night, it stopped raining. Of course.

Mother's Day Breakfast
The next day at about 1300 we arrived at the marina in Georgetown. We were staying at the Georgetown Landing Marina and it was our first time there. It was a little further from town than I would have liked, but the folks were friendly and it was a little bit cheaper than the downtown marinas. We had seen the marina in passing, but we hadn’t been close to it before.  Unfortunately, the closer we got, the more aback I was taken by how open it was to wind and current. In fact, the current flowing through the marina at the time we arrived was between 1.5 and 2.0 MPH – I think our anchorage the night before was better protected. Anyway, after some confusion on their part, the dockmaster told me where he wanted me to go. I had to make a 180 degree turn – in the face of substantial current – to get into the marina, move about 100 yards, then make another 180 degree turn to slide into the space on the face dock where they wanted me to tie up. Now, on the one hand, it wasn’t as hard as I have made it sound – because I had a lot of room. On the other hand, man did I pull into that slot perfectly!! I mean after the second 180 degree turn, I was about 20 feet put from the spot where they wanted me. And the current/wind combination pushed me right into the slip. Ann had put the fenders in exactly the right place and we just touched the dock. (Forgive me for bragging, but since I tell you all the bad stuff I do (like losing the top step from our swim platform ladder in Portsmouth), I get to tell you the good things I do too!)


Although the marina was clean enough and the people were nice enough, it was clear to me from the minute we arrived that this was not the marina I thought it was. Not only were we exposed to wind and current (which in nasty weather could be a VERY bad thing), but we were right next to a busy bridge that had traffic ALL night long. Moreover, there was a small Coast Guard station right next door. Now, I generally think very highly of the Coast Guard. But this was the first one I had seen or heard a Coast Guard Station that used bugle calls. Bugle calls!! In the Coast Guard!! In the morning they played “First Call”, “Assembly”, and “Reveille.” I didn’t pay close attention to the evening calls so I am not sure what they played. At least, though, I didn’t hear "Charge!"

 After Georgetown we went to Osprey Marina. It is kind of out in the middle of nowhere between Georgetown and Myrtle Beach. Why did we stop there, you might ask. Because it has some of the least expensive fuel o on the ICW. After Osprey we went to Barefoot Landing Marina in Myrtle Beach. Whey did we go there? Because Ann wanted to. Apparently she wanted to buy a fish ... you'll have to read her explanation below.

We were going to stop the blog here, but then we got caught at St. James Marina waiting for Tropical Storm Ana. On Wednesday we zipped past St. James as I was listening to the weather. Our plan had been to anchor out at Carolina Beach for the next couple of days before heading towards Oriental, NC. Carolina Beach is on the beach (duh), has a boardwalk and sounded like a lot of fun. As were proceeding down the Waterway, however, we heard that a low pressure area from the Bahamas might cause some bad weather over the next couple of days. Well, being prudent (read chicken) boaters, we decided that with that kind of warning, we probably ought not plan on anchoring out. So we turned around and went the mile or two back to St. James Marina, where we had stayed many times before.

The weather wasn’t as bad on Wednesday as had been predicted, but they told us that the really bad stuff was due to arrive on Thursday, so, of course, we stayed another night. On Thursday they told us the worst was coming on Friday, and on Friday … you guessed it … they told us it was coming Saturday. On Wednesday, Thursday and Friday we walked the area a little and Ann took Spot for a few strolls on the dock, but really we really had nothing to do. I was … I was … I was … going wacky! That was all right, we figured, because we would be out of there is a couple of days.

Tropical Storm Ana as seen on our Garmin Weather Program.
The symbol for our boat is just to the right of the symbol for the
Tropical Storm
Well, on Saturday the bad weather really did arrive. Tropical Storm Ana, the fist named storm of the season, and it caught us almost dead-on. The wind was steady at 30 and gusted to over 40 knots, and both days, the rain was incessant. And we still didn’t have anything to do. All day long. Both days. Yes, we have some old movies on board and watched a Sherlock Holmes video (with the REAL Sherlock Holmes, Basil Rathbone). We also watched a Dick Tracy movie (no, he didn’t have his telephone-watch) and a film about Bulldog Drummond (sorry, while I know he had several movies, I still don’t know who he is).

Other than that, we watched the weather. And I played computer games. And I read. But good lord, trapped in a 52 foot long boat for 24 hours day after day after day after day after … I was going truly stir-crazy. 

By Monday, the storm had abated and we were back on our way to Mile Hammock Bay – Thank Heaven!!!

Our Television System

We have decided that sometimes these blog entries read more like a travelog than a cruiser’s blog. So, periodically, we are going to tell you something about the boating part of our cruising life. Sometimes it might be interesting, and sometimes not, but, hey, at least it will be a change of pace.

I mentioned earlier that we watched “How I Met Your Mother,” on TV. In general, there are four ways that we could watch TV on our boat. The first, of course, is satellite TV. There are two kinds of satellite dishes that cruisers usually use, and one is much better than the other. The first is a simple satellite dish that is substantially the same as the kind you might have at your house. The trouble is that these dishes only work when you are in a marina or in an anchorage where your boat is completely still (which hardly ever happens). You can set them up on your boat or next to your boat, point them at the satellite and voila – television!!

The second kind of antenna is much better on boats – and, as you might have guessed much more expensive. It is a dish that automatically changes its azimuth as moves so that it continually points at the satellite. This is the kind they use on cruise ships. On the move or in an anchorage when you might twist and turn, the dish should keep pointed at the satellite and continually give you a signal!!! Wow!!!

We don’t have either of those.

We do have a cable and when we are in a marina that offers cable service I’ll sometimes connect the cable and we can watch television – obviously, though, that doesn’t work at anchor. So, we also have a simple old fashioned TV antenna. Remember the days when you or your dad had to get up on the roof and turn the antenna until it optimized the channels available? Well, ours is a little more advanced than that in that it is contained within a “dome” so it doesn’t really turn. But the channels we get depend on exactly where we are and where the transmitter is. About 50% of the time we get nothing – or stations with so much interference that they are unwatchable. The other 50% of the time we get somewhere between 4 and 8 stations. Now these usually aren’t one of the biggies, NBC, CBS, ABC or CNN. Instead, we get various shopping networks, sometimes a Spanish-speaking channel or two, and once in a while we get one or more PBS stations. More often than not, however, we get things like the ion network and METV. For those of you who have not seen METV you are really missing something.

METV which stands for Memorable Entertainment Television and it carries those programs of another time, when men watched westerns, women cleaned and cooked in high heels and married couples had to be depicted in separate beds. Yes, I am talking about the greats, shows like The Rifleman, Bonanza, Rescue 21, the original Star Trek, Perry Mason and other shows of yesteryear. When you can’t keep up with the happenings of Madmen and NCIS you would be surprised at how interesting an episode of the Rifleman can be.

Frequently, however, we can’t get any stations or can only receive shopping networks. When that happens we revert to DVDs. Have you ever wondered what it would be like to watch all ten years of Cheers, back to back? Or all the episodes of Bones, Big Bang or some other TV show? That is what we generally do in the evenings. You would be surprised how long these series can last if you are only watching a couple of episodes per night on nights where you have nothing else to do.

The real reason, though, that we haven’t splurged on an expensive satellite set-up is that cruising is still an adventure for us. Sure there are a few hours every couple of days when we want to watch TV, but most of the time we are enjoying our boat, our friends, the water and the wonderful, wonderful outdoors. And even the best PBS shows can’t capture all that.

That, and the fact that most TV shows suck nowadays.



ANN’S NOTES: I was just going to let Michael send out the blog without my notes, but then I started to look at the pictures and that spurred me on to add, as my dad would say, “my two cents worth”.

And the fish I caught was thhhiiss BIG!
And it was blue and it fit on the sofa and ...
We have really had a nice time just taking it slowly, most of the time the slowness was controlled by the weather or the talk of weather to come. We spend much longer at St James Plantation Marina than we wanted. Our view on the port side was nice, we could see the ICW and the traffic on it. The starboard side was a different story, we had the Big D sign marking the dock right in the middle of our salon window. As the tides came and went, the level of the sign would appear to move.
We celebrated Mother’s Day on the boat, the rain was so bad that I made Michael and I breakfast. It was very good and I even liked making it myself. We did have a break in the weather one evening and we went out to dinner at the marina restaurant. We sat outside and enjoyed the view and each other’s company. Tropical storm Ana was something to be seen, the weather screen on the Garmin was lit up like a Christmas tree. The wind was blowing at 30 MPH and gusting to 40 MPH. I was glad to be tied up next to that big D.

Before we went to wait out the storm at St James Plantation Marina, we went back to Barefoot Landing Marina near Myrtle Beach SC. Michael has talked to you about this marina next to the outlet stores. Really just a bunch of beach types stores…But…they have a store that sells Life Is Good t-shirts ( my favorite). They also have a cute gift shop that sells nautical themed items. (Go figure.) I saw this cute pillow in the shape of a fish last fall. I liked it and showed it to Michael. I Did not get the “that is cute, go ahead and buy it” from him …so I put it back and then went into a year of worth of buyer’s remorse. As you can see, it is now very happy with my other nautical pillows.

The Spot Update…
Spot beneath the helm window.
Note her left hind leg holding on to the curtain rod.

She is getting longer and can jump to any place she wants. I can tell when she is ready to make that jump … she wiggles her butt just before the leap.

She loves to lay on the helm station and soak up the sun, at times she is not very modest about it.

Spot makes us laugh and we enjoy her company as much as she enjoys ours.

Thanks for reading…

Traveling Soul…OUT
 

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